Dishing up dormice delight
Friday, November 21st, 2008
The edible dormouse is the star of Giuseppe Carpaneto and Mauro Cristaldi’s 1995 study Dormice and Man: A Review of Past and Present Relations, published in the journal Hystrix. The two Rome-based scholars, Carpaneto at Terza University, Cristaldi at the University of Rome, savour one of the tasty rodent’s two major historical roles. Though some scorned it an agricultural pest, many prized the critter for its succulence.
Carpaneto and Cristaldi suggest that dormouse cuisine and dormouse documentation owe much to the Romans, and almost nothing to earlier civilisations. “The ancient Greeks,” they write, “were not very interested in dormice because they did not eat them … Oribatius (fourth century AD), a Byzantine author on medicine, wrote that their meat is untasty and purgative.”
Carpaneto and Cristaldi tell of how things changed once the Romans got cooking…
So begins this week’s Improbable Research column in The Guardian.







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